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Les Anciens Combattants
June 6, 2013 | 11 Comments | Betsy Woodman
The sixtieth anniversary of the invasion of Normandy was approaching, and my eighty-eight-year-old dad, Everett Woodman, very much wanted to go to the ceremonies at the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. He’d been a young naval officer in the historic battle, serving on a Landing Craft Infantry that carried American special forces to Omaha Beach and led the way for other such craft.
My mom, Ruthie, then eighty-three, would have preferred to stay home; plus, she was having memory problems. My sisters and I were anxious about this trip, but there was a safety net of sorts—cousin Persis would meet my parents at Charles de Gaulle airport and take them to their hotel, a friend would put them on the train to Normandy, another would pick them up in Caen, and so forth. Near the beaches, my parents had been invited to stay with a local citizen who was eager to host an “ancien combattant.”
Seeing my parents off from Boston on May 31, my sister Jane and I grew increasingly nervous. We asked at Air France if there were any empty seats on the plane. Ha! Not a chance. All right, the die was cast. Off through security they trundled, my dad hobbling on two canes and my mom clutching a worn black handbag tightly against her body.
Around noon the next day, I called their hotel in Paris. Sorry, I was told, they’re not here. Next, I tried Persis. Seems that the arrival had been a bit of a disaster: Persis was half an hour late at Charles de Gaulle; the luggage was delayed; the first hotel had not worked out; they’d moved to another; and then—my mom went down to the lobby, told the clerk she was going to see what was playing at the movies, and headed in the direction of the Champs Elysées. She ended up in a Gabon Air office, and, mercifully, found her list of emergency numbers in her handbag; by that time my dad had called the police and the American embassy.
The next evening, Jane and I were on an Icelandair flight to Paris via Reykjavík. At the hotel, we found my dad white as a sheet, with bags under his eyes. He hadn’t slept in two nights. In contrast, my mom looked good.
Jane and I had a busy week. How had we ever thought that the parents could manage? The train stations had long, steep staircases. The restaurants, taxis, restrooms, ATM machines never seemed to be there when you needed them.
Fortunately, my dad wore a cap proclaiming his Omaha beach history. Little boys ran up to him on the street and asked for his autograph. Everywhere, the French bent over backwards to help us. At one particularly daunting train station, a young railway employee spied us, found a wheelchair, led us into a freight elevator, and escorted us onto the train.
In Louvières, Marie-Thérèse Exmelin, seventy-four years old, ended up with four guests rather than the two she had expected, but her good humor never flagged. My mother’s French held up beautifully, and our hostess dubbed her “madame toujours souriante.” The always smiling lady.
Finally, Jane and I got passes to the June 6th ceremony. (I’m in the hat.)
My dad had seen Saving Private Ryan, so after the speeches, he chatted with Tom Hanks about the realism of the film.
On the way back to Boston, Air France bumped my parents from coach to first class, and the pilot invited my dad into the cockpit for the landing at Logan. Dad was thrilled. Vive la France!
My dad died in 2007, and my mom in 2011. I tell this story in grateful memory of them and with love to my sister Jane. She’s a great traveling companion.
Betsy, what a story. I took a roller-coaster ride of emotions with you all the way through, and enjoyed every single moment, Thank you for your beautiful writing, and lovely perspective in life.
Bets,
I’m so glad to have read this! I had heard of the French affection (no, it’s love!) for the anciens. What a thrill for all of you. Now a thrill for me and everyone I share this with.
See you this summer at the reunion.
How
A lovely story, indeed. When someone once said: “There are two ways to travel: First class or with children,” I’m sure that didn’t mean grown children.
Betsy! What a lovely story, “roller-coaster ride of emotions” is a PERFECT description! Fighting ‘happy’ tears at the end. Thank you for sharing this.
I sent a link to Bruce so he could also enjoy reading it.
Your parents have come alive for me again. What a blessing it was to have two wonderful caring daughters! Thanks for sharing, Betsy.
Good work Bets,
Scrappy parents those! I hope I can be as focused and brave when I am an elder.I think they always had the “wider view” .
Wonderful story Betsy. The pictures are a treasure 🙂
Betsy,
Reading your wonderful article is one of the reasons I like facebook. I sent it on to all my siblings as well. I remember my sister Nancy telling me about their trip – they were so brave to try it. Thank you for being the historian and great writer that you are. Our parents were such good friends and I love reading about their lives. Judy
Made me cry Betsy! Your mom such a beauty.. And how I loved your dad as I came to know him from his letters to me … Requiescat in pacem!
Lovely new posts, Betsy.
Your parents sound wonderful.
What a wonderful way to start my day, renewing my great affection for your dear, engaging, parents, as well as for you, Jane, and Lee! Once again, their daughters do them proud!